At the bus stop...

Last night  - after a lovely evening with friends - John and I walked to the bus spot.   Sitting on the garbage can were two items.  The inverted bottle is from wine.  That is too bad, as it reminds me that alcoholism is a problem in this country, and it is a problem that is growing.   But that is not at all why I took the picture.  I took it because of the other item in the garbage can.  It is a half empty jar of herring ("sill") !!!   Only in Sweden!!!!!  

A wonderful weekend

We are incredibly humbled and grateful for the graciousness and generosity of all of our friends.  There are no words to describe the kindness of all the people whom we have met here.  Allow me to share some pictures of our weekend....

On Friday we were asked over to a family's house for dinner.   The dinner was lovely and we enjoyed wonderful conversation with the entire family.  The wife is from the far northern part of Sweden.  Allow me to show a few pictures of some of the treasures from her region that she has on display in their home.

The shoes on far right, and the children's shoes were our hosts as she was growing up.

The baskets shown are woven from birch root.  They represent many many hours of skilled labor.  The small pouch is to hold sewing supplies.  The knife is one used by reindeer herders.  The white sheath and part of the handle are made of reindeer bone.

Detail of the beautiful small basket

Saturday evening we were invited to dinner at another friends home.  This is the view outside their kitchen window.  The view from their living room balcony is at least as lovely, looking over the sea toward Copenhagen.

After a wonderful dinner of warm smoked salmon (which, by the way, is to die for), we took a walk along the water. 

Sunday...

The same friends graciously invited us to  join them on a beautiful tour of the south coast of Skåne (the southern part of Sweden).  

A hang glider was overhead.

Afterwards we ate a lovely light dinner.  I had three different types of pickled herring ("sill") and John enjoyed goat cheese with honey and walnuts and a Czech beer.  We then went to meet their daughter, son-in-law and grandchildren at a coffee house for coffee, tea and dessert.  At the cafe, there was a group playing American music from the 60's and 70's, which was fun.   More great conversation - and then we were driven home and dropped off at our front door.  

.... I don't know how to say thank you....

“There is no bad weather, just bad clothing.”

This is an often used Swedish quote.  The longer I live here, the more I understand it.  Swedes seem to be out in all weather, and I respect that.  I am not saying I want to do it.  But I respect it.

The weather here in Malmö changes very quickly.  I am used to changeable weather.  Clevelander’s have their own saying, “If you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes.”  Of course the weather there doesn’t really change that quickly, but the temperature may fluctuate twenty or more degrees from one day to the next.  On rare occasion, a storm wind will blow refreshingly cool air off Lake Erie to break a hot spell, and the temperature might drop twenty degrees in an hour’s time.  But in Malmö, the weather can go from gray and rainy, to incredibly sunny blue skies, and then back to gray and rainy again all within an hour.  One either brings an umbrella “just in case,” or just walks through it.

Perhaps these pictures of black clouds overshadowing bright white billowy ones, illustrate the changeable weather better than I can explain it.

It is cool here.  Cooler than I anticipated.  I am not complaining (too much) because I really dislike hot weather.  May had some days in the 80’s, but June is historically cooler and wetter than May, and July  continues to have high temperatures in the 60’s and low 70’s.  But the Swedes love to be outdoors, so they dress appropriately, and they bravely get out there, turning their faces toward the sun.  And what do they wear?  One Sunday afternoon in mid-June I saw a young woman in a knit hat and gloves.  Scarves are in style, so they are common.  Many women wear leggings.  At first I assumed leggings were a fashion statement.  They are cute.  But then I realized that if I wanted to wear a summer skirt, I would be too cool without leggings.  And so – I now have 5 pair!  Like I said: They are cute!

 

The restaurant owners are smart business persons and also accommodate for the climate.  There are not only heaters placed outdoors, but fleece throws on every chair.  I love it!  The outdoor seating areas are  filled to capacity.

Shoes.  I love shoes.  I brought miscellaneous flats, sandals and even a few pair of heels when we moved here.  But I have stopped wearing them.  Relying on walking and public transportation, I typically walk from 3-7 miles a day.  I need to wear shoes that take care of my feet.  So I have invested more Kroners than I care to think of in Dr. Scholl's (pronounced, by the way, something like: F + whew + ools).   Oh well….at least I have cute leggings….

Ystad

The weather was beautiful today.   The weather has been a little sketchy with it raining often and the temperature only intermittently hitting 70 degrees.  I know that most everyone in the U.S. is suffering from the horrible heat wave, so with that in mind, I am not complaining.  Anyway, since it was beautiful, we took a train to Ystad.
Ystad is around 35 miles southeast of Malmo.  I do not remember how old it is, but there are many buildings from the 13th century.

So here is the tour!

There is a ferry in Ystad that goes to a Danish island.  Thus the Danish and Swedish flags fly at this port.

I don't know why this was on the side of a building.  Perhaps there used to be a public telephone here.   But I thought it was great, so I took this picture and am sharing it with you.

I know you are seeing this twice.  Just ignore that - technical difficulties.   This 16th century "stepped gable" building is said to be the oldest school building in Scandinavia.

The church of Saint Maria dates back to the 13th century.   It of course started as a Catholic church, but, after some... friction... it became Lutheran.   It remains Lutheran. The tower actually dates back to "only" 1706, as the original tower  collapsed in the 17th century.  The church appears so plain on the outside, we were not prepared for the beauty that we found within. 

From the entryway, looking at the front of the church.

A closer look at the altar.  Beautiful.

From the front, looking toward the back of the church.  Note the pipe organ.   Also notice that along the aisle there are burial markers.  There are more throughout the church.  Most date back to the 17th century.

This is part of an altar screen that  dates back to the 15th century and is now in the christening chapel.   This section is probably around 18 x 14 inches, and the entire screen is probably around 4 x 5 feet. 

Outside the church and down the street we passed a small hotel.   In the picture below, the word "rum" means "room".   So pretty...

And finally - for all you Buffalonians, I give you part of the menu at the local brewpub.  How fun is that?!

It really is a small world. 

Company and Copenhagen

Company and Copenhagen

We were thrilled to host my brother, sister-in-law (who I think of as a sister) and a dear friend for a visit.   We had a wonderful time showing them around the area, and of course, offering them tastings of the local favorite foods.  This translated into us eating some form of herring and/or salmon 7 out of 7 days.  I feel healthier already!!

The first place we went is the local Kolony.   I can just imagine what you are thinking.  Allow me to explain.   We live in the city.  It is not a huge city.  Malmo only has around 300,000 people, but it is a city none the less.   But - it is well known that Swedes love the great outdoors.   Thus, at least locally, they have Kolonies.  I do not know all the in's and out's of them, but apparently Kolonies have moderate sized yards which people buy (or rent?) and where they can tend gardens and enjoy the calmer, greener, gentler outdoors.   There are little cottages on the lots we saw.   I was told by a local that there is a restriction against living there year round, but people do over-night there.  The one we went to is open to the public certain hours of the day. 

 

Entrance

 yard

The next day we took a quick 15 minute train ride to Lund.  The city of Lund dates back to, they think, around 1100 A.D.   Lund cathedral is almost as old. 

A highlights tour:

In Lund Cathedral

Catacombs beneath the cathedral. 

Within the cathedral is a 13th or 14th century clock with movable figures, that still keeps correct time.  At the top of the clock, two figures, which represent day and night, fight with swords.   Then, as the hour chimes, the heralds raise their bugles and figures come out of the clock and pass Mary and baby Jesus who are seated in the center of the clock.   As the three wise men pass, they bow their heads in reverence.

A few days later, another 20 minute train ride in the opposite direction took us to Copenhagen, Denmark.

Note that the figure is on a bicycle.  Copenhagen, like Lund and Malmo, has a bicycle culture.  

A fountain in Copenhagen. 

The beloved Little Mermaid

A great lamp post on a beautiful day.

Danishes!!  What else?

Actually Danes call them wienerbrød, literally "Viennese bread"

 A butcher shop display case.

This gives a new meaning to "Coffee to go".

Again - this is just a quick highlights tour.  If you want to see more - you will have to come for a visit!!    I'll put on the kaffe pot!